Once your dog learns to stop and stay put (and they will), you will have to be
repetitive with this as with all other training. At the early stages of independent
whoaing, do not call the dog to you. Make them stand there until you come back and
release them. If you are going to continue to walk at heel, just say heel and walk on.
If you are going to let them run, walk back to them, touch their shoulder and say
“ok”. Eventually you want your dog to know whoa so well that you can pull on their
lead and they will resist coming to you. You will want them to whoa even when they
can’t see you. Get them used to whoaing with the whistle only, word only. Get them
to whoa every time you command it. As they get better at it you can whoa them at a
distance, call them to you and whoa them several times on the way back. You can
whoa and release them at a distance by saying “ok” Whoa goes way beyond control;
it can turn into a very effective form of communication between you and your dog.
Holding up your right hand is not only a silent command, but it causes the dog to
focus on your hand, laying the foundation for hand signals such as going in a
certain direction.
repetitive with this as with all other training. At the early stages of independent
whoaing, do not call the dog to you. Make them stand there until you come back and
release them. If you are going to continue to walk at heel, just say heel and walk on.
If you are going to let them run, walk back to them, touch their shoulder and say
“ok”. Eventually you want your dog to know whoa so well that you can pull on their
lead and they will resist coming to you. You will want them to whoa even when they
can’t see you. Get them used to whoaing with the whistle only, word only. Get them
to whoa every time you command it. As they get better at it you can whoa them at a
distance, call them to you and whoa them several times on the way back. You can
whoa and release them at a distance by saying “ok” Whoa goes way beyond control;
it can turn into a very effective form of communication between you and your dog.
Holding up your right hand is not only a silent command, but it causes the dog to
focus on your hand, laying the foundation for hand signals such as going in a
certain direction.
Start with walking the dog at heel. “Whoa” him verbally and while he is standing
there slowly move a short distance to his front. As you get in front repeat “whoa”
and hold up your right hand, palm forward. If he stays put, that’s great. Walk back to
the dog and tell them “good dog”. Chances are, he’ll want to come to you. Go
figure, they’ve gotten used to being near you during this training. Set the dog back
to where they were when the command was first issued. Repeat “whoa” and style
him up softly saying “whoa”. Try again. Slowly to the front, right hand up palm
forward. If he stays put, great. Go back and say good dog. If it doesn’t, back to the
point of infraction. “Whoa” style him up softly saying “whoa. A firm tug on the lead
towards his rear, saying “whoa” and walking to the front of the dog with your right
hand held up palm forward. If it works, great. If it doesn’t, sell the dog, he’s defective
(just kidding). If it gets frustrating, quit the exercise. Through the course of training
you should be getting a feel for how much pressure you can apply to your dog
without being overbearing. If they start becoming uncomfortable or nervous with
what you are trying to do, quit the training. Go back to heeling and whoaing on a
lead and try again at a later time. Sometimes laying the lead over their back will
serve as a reminder you’re still connected and make it easier for the dog to stay put.
there slowly move a short distance to his front. As you get in front repeat “whoa”
and hold up your right hand, palm forward. If he stays put, that’s great. Walk back to
the dog and tell them “good dog”. Chances are, he’ll want to come to you. Go
figure, they’ve gotten used to being near you during this training. Set the dog back
to where they were when the command was first issued. Repeat “whoa” and style
him up softly saying “whoa”. Try again. Slowly to the front, right hand up palm
forward. If he stays put, great. Go back and say good dog. If it doesn’t, back to the
point of infraction. “Whoa” style him up softly saying “whoa. A firm tug on the lead
towards his rear, saying “whoa” and walking to the front of the dog with your right
hand held up palm forward. If it works, great. If it doesn’t, sell the dog, he’s defective
(just kidding). If it gets frustrating, quit the exercise. Through the course of training
you should be getting a feel for how much pressure you can apply to your dog
without being overbearing. If they start becoming uncomfortable or nervous with
what you are trying to do, quit the training. Go back to heeling and whoaing on a
lead and try again at a later time. Sometimes laying the lead over their back will
serve as a reminder you’re still connected and make it easier for the dog to stay put.
Talking soothingly while saying “whoa”. This does wonders for the dog’s comfort
level. The more comfortable they are, the more willingly they are going to obey.
After a few sessions of “whoa” verbally, we add the whistle. One “pip” equals whoa.
Use the whistle and word together and separately so they learn that they both mean
stop. (While hunting, I only use the whistle for whoa. Wild birds seem to have an
aversion to human voices). Be diligent with whoa training, it is a very important
command. A few 15 minute sessions a week will go a long way. Productive training
doesn’t need to be formal. Again, incorporate training into everyday life. Take your
dog for daily walks. While you are walking, they are heeling. If you stop for
whatever reason, whoa the dog. Teach your dog to whoa before you enter and/or
leave a room, building, car, kennel, etc. Take advantage of opportunities for
training. When they are heeling properly and stopping at the verbal and whistle
“whoa” command, then you can start teaching them to not only stop, but to stay put.
level. The more comfortable they are, the more willingly they are going to obey.
After a few sessions of “whoa” verbally, we add the whistle. One “pip” equals whoa.
Use the whistle and word together and separately so they learn that they both mean
stop. (While hunting, I only use the whistle for whoa. Wild birds seem to have an
aversion to human voices). Be diligent with whoa training, it is a very important
command. A few 15 minute sessions a week will go a long way. Productive training
doesn’t need to be formal. Again, incorporate training into everyday life. Take your
dog for daily walks. While you are walking, they are heeling. If you stop for
whatever reason, whoa the dog. Teach your dog to whoa before you enter and/or
leave a room, building, car, kennel, etc. Take advantage of opportunities for
training. When they are heeling properly and stopping at the verbal and whistle
“whoa” command, then you can start teaching them to not only stop, but to stay put.
|
To introduce your puppy to the leash attach a short piece of cord or a light lead to
their collar and let them drag it around until they get used to it. They may play with it
or carry it around for a while; eventually they will get bored with it and ignore it.
When they do this they have pretty well accepted it. Just don’t be pulling on their
lead or start training until they get used to wearing it.
After they accept the lead you can start working on calling them to you. Get a light
piece of cord about 20 ft long. (clothesline size will work). As they are running about
or playing, call them, “Bob here” (always say their name first) gently pull them
towards you until they start coming on their own. When they get to you make a big
deal out of it. They must know that coming to you is a good thing. Bribes don’t hurt
either. Sometimes getting down on your knees makes them respond better. The key
is to only pull on the rope enough to direct them to you. If they come on their own,
don’t pull. If they get distracted along the way, give another gentle tug to redirect
them to you. Voluntary obedience is the goal and this is easy if you make it
enjoyable. As with all training with a youngster keep it short. Do a few recalls and
then give it a break. After a few days they should be responding quite
well.
their collar and let them drag it around until they get used to it. They may play with it
or carry it around for a while; eventually they will get bored with it and ignore it.
When they do this they have pretty well accepted it. Just don’t be pulling on their
lead or start training until they get used to wearing it.
After they accept the lead you can start working on calling them to you. Get a light
piece of cord about 20 ft long. (clothesline size will work). As they are running about
or playing, call them, “Bob here” (always say their name first) gently pull them
towards you until they start coming on their own. When they get to you make a big
deal out of it. They must know that coming to you is a good thing. Bribes don’t hurt
either. Sometimes getting down on your knees makes them respond better. The key
is to only pull on the rope enough to direct them to you. If they come on their own,
don’t pull. If they get distracted along the way, give another gentle tug to redirect
them to you. Voluntary obedience is the goal and this is easy if you make it
enjoyable. As with all training with a youngster keep it short. Do a few recalls and
then give it a break. After a few days they should be responding quite
well.
| Copyright © 2007 Two Seasons Farm All rights reserved. |
We place all puppies as pets. Gordons do not fare well in an excluded environment.
The same attributes that make them a good companion dog, go with them into the
field. Keep in mind that the training starts when they go home with their people.
Whether one realizes it or not they are always learning something. Then there is
TRAINING where they learn specific tasks be it whoa, heel, stand on their head, or
what ever.
There have been volumes written on training dogs, and it could appear to be a
daunting task. Our approach to training is to keep it as simple as possible, consistent
and insistent, with the key ingredient being, knowing your dog. We also have the
mindset that hunting or other training should be fun and enjoyable for both owner and
dog, as the objectives are the same whether you are upland hunting or playing a game
of fetch in the backyard. It’s fun. We like our dogs.
Training can, if allowed, be a frustrating experience. Watching and learning about your
dog, you‘ll know when they are bored, nervous, uncomfortable etc. (they do live with
you). Knowing your dog allows you to know when you should stop a training session. If
you get angry with your dog, gather your wits and stop the training. Be realistic,
training takes time, patience, and experience. Don’t be in a rush. As far as experience-
if you don’t have any before start, you will have as soon as you start. You may just
need to get more. First time owners can do very well. If you don’t have time to train one
of our Gordons you don’t have time to own one.
At a minimum, we believe, a hunting dog as well as pets should be taught to heel,
whoa, recall and for the hunter, quarter. Quartering, to the point of being practical.
Yes, you can get by with little or no formal training, (we’ve been there). But a trained
dog is a pure joy to hunt and be with. Besides that, Gordons have certain “attention
requirements”. Why not give them the kind of attention that will prove useful?
This site will contain information to assist our owners in keeping and training their
dogs. Along with our “lodge” for those who live beyond a comfortable drive, our training
ground, birds, launchers, and experience exist for that very reason.
The same attributes that make them a good companion dog, go with them into the
field. Keep in mind that the training starts when they go home with their people.
Whether one realizes it or not they are always learning something. Then there is
TRAINING where they learn specific tasks be it whoa, heel, stand on their head, or
what ever.
There have been volumes written on training dogs, and it could appear to be a
daunting task. Our approach to training is to keep it as simple as possible, consistent
and insistent, with the key ingredient being, knowing your dog. We also have the
mindset that hunting or other training should be fun and enjoyable for both owner and
dog, as the objectives are the same whether you are upland hunting or playing a game
of fetch in the backyard. It’s fun. We like our dogs.
Training can, if allowed, be a frustrating experience. Watching and learning about your
dog, you‘ll know when they are bored, nervous, uncomfortable etc. (they do live with
you). Knowing your dog allows you to know when you should stop a training session. If
you get angry with your dog, gather your wits and stop the training. Be realistic,
training takes time, patience, and experience. Don’t be in a rush. As far as experience-
if you don’t have any before start, you will have as soon as you start. You may just
need to get more. First time owners can do very well. If you don’t have time to train one
of our Gordons you don’t have time to own one.
At a minimum, we believe, a hunting dog as well as pets should be taught to heel,
whoa, recall and for the hunter, quarter. Quartering, to the point of being practical.
Yes, you can get by with little or no formal training, (we’ve been there). But a trained
dog is a pure joy to hunt and be with. Besides that, Gordons have certain “attention
requirements”. Why not give them the kind of attention that will prove useful?
This site will contain information to assist our owners in keeping and training their
dogs. Along with our “lodge” for those who live beyond a comfortable drive, our training
ground, birds, launchers, and experience exist for that very reason.
| “I myself have had setters of marvelous sagacity, whose penetration into my intentions, whose reflections and method and deductions, have startled me at times and who acted from a power to which I should hesitate to give the name of instinct.” ~ Rev. T. Pearce owner of a flourishing Gordon Setter kennel during the 19th century Gordon Setters Today, Jose Baddeley, Ringpress Books Ltd., 1994 |
The most important ingredient in training is ATTITUDE.
We train our Gordons in a manner that enhances
their abilities and utilizes their attributes and
personality. Our Gordons are very communicative.
Eye contact is a key factor. For those who pay
attention, this will become apparent very quickly. Our
Gordons hunt connected. Notice I didn’t say close
(more on this in the hunting section). They are best
trained “hands on”. Through training, dog and owner
develop a partnership that builds a mutual
confidence and trust. A dog that has confidence in
their owner is easier to train. A dog that trusts their
owner is easier to train. An owner that has
confidence and trust in their dog will allow them to
realize their full potential.
their abilities and utilizes their attributes and
personality. Our Gordons are very communicative.
Eye contact is a key factor. For those who pay
attention, this will become apparent very quickly. Our
Gordons hunt connected. Notice I didn’t say close
(more on this in the hunting section). They are best
trained “hands on”. Through training, dog and owner
develop a partnership that builds a mutual
confidence and trust. A dog that has confidence in
their owner is easier to train. A dog that trusts their
owner is easier to train. An owner that has
confidence and trust in their dog will allow them to
realize their full potential.
Training Builds A Bond That Binds
|
The most important thing a gundog can do is hunt to the gun. By this we mean, to
have a connection with their hunting partner (you) that goes beyond mere
association. A good gundog has a strong attachment to their owner and a strong
desire to please. A good gundog is developed over time with care, consistent
training and exposure to birds.
Our Gordons have the instincts and temperament that allow them to excel as a
gundog. We do not force train. Our Gordons like the attention of training, and we
make it comfortable and enjoyable. We show them what we want and then it is a
mater of repetition. Training need not be complicated. It does require time which can
be incorporated with every day life. For example: a simple walk can be heel and
whoa training with some turning. If you are going to cross a road make them whoa
until you command otherwise. Expectations grow with the dog. Do not expect them
to perform something they do not thoroughly know, but after they do know, you
should expect and demand compliance. Firmness and patience go a long way with
training .With a good understanding of your dog’s personality and temperament
some relatively simple training can develop a very suitable hunter.
In its simplest form, a gundog must cover ground, point birds, and follow direction.
We train with these things in mind, particularly the “simplest”. Little things such as
teaching your dog to walk on a lead and to heel pay enormous dividends. It’s
amazing how many hunters spend so little time on this. Training a gundog is as
simple as teaching it to heel. If you can teach you dog to heel you can teach him to
stop (whoa), and if you can teach him to whoa, you can teach him to turn (quarter)...
Beyond the simple mechanics it’s all about developing a rapport.
The exercises we use to train our Gordon Setters can be used by both the pet
owner and the hunter. The keys to successful training for pets and hunting dogs
are the same:
• Keep it simple
• Keep it short
• Keep it fun
We typically start the yard training when the puppy is about 10-14 weeks old. We do
not establish any set schedule or time frame for training. Training for puppies is
very relaxed and enjoyable. The basic idea behind the early training is to teach
basic commands and get the puppy used to being handled and, in particular, used
to a lead.
It is most important for the owner-trainer to be clear in their mind what the goals and
commands are. Self discipline is key to training. Use the same command and be
consistent. We train verbal, whistle, and hand commands. Here is a list of verbal and
whistle commands we use. Notice that some words are similar in sound, like, “whoa”
and “no”, “heel” and “here”. These are, for the most part, traditional commands and
are very functional. Some prefer “come” for the recall command; it doesn’t matter,
what does matter is consistency.
• The recall – call the dog’s name command “Here”; several pips on the whistle
• Walking at heel – command “heel”, point to your left foot
• Stop (or staunchness on point) – command “whoa”, one pip on the whistle;
raise right hand
• Release from “whoa” – command “ok” and gently touch the dog on his
shoulder
• Change direction (turn) – command “come around”; two pips on the whistle;
point in desired direction
• Retrieving – command “fetch”
• Release of retrieved object – command “leave”
have a connection with their hunting partner (you) that goes beyond mere
association. A good gundog has a strong attachment to their owner and a strong
desire to please. A good gundog is developed over time with care, consistent
training and exposure to birds.
Our Gordons have the instincts and temperament that allow them to excel as a
gundog. We do not force train. Our Gordons like the attention of training, and we
make it comfortable and enjoyable. We show them what we want and then it is a
mater of repetition. Training need not be complicated. It does require time which can
be incorporated with every day life. For example: a simple walk can be heel and
whoa training with some turning. If you are going to cross a road make them whoa
until you command otherwise. Expectations grow with the dog. Do not expect them
to perform something they do not thoroughly know, but after they do know, you
should expect and demand compliance. Firmness and patience go a long way with
training .With a good understanding of your dog’s personality and temperament
some relatively simple training can develop a very suitable hunter.
In its simplest form, a gundog must cover ground, point birds, and follow direction.
We train with these things in mind, particularly the “simplest”. Little things such as
teaching your dog to walk on a lead and to heel pay enormous dividends. It’s
amazing how many hunters spend so little time on this. Training a gundog is as
simple as teaching it to heel. If you can teach you dog to heel you can teach him to
stop (whoa), and if you can teach him to whoa, you can teach him to turn (quarter)...
Beyond the simple mechanics it’s all about developing a rapport.
The exercises we use to train our Gordon Setters can be used by both the pet
owner and the hunter. The keys to successful training for pets and hunting dogs
are the same:
• Keep it simple
• Keep it short
• Keep it fun
We typically start the yard training when the puppy is about 10-14 weeks old. We do
not establish any set schedule or time frame for training. Training for puppies is
very relaxed and enjoyable. The basic idea behind the early training is to teach
basic commands and get the puppy used to being handled and, in particular, used
to a lead.
It is most important for the owner-trainer to be clear in their mind what the goals and
commands are. Self discipline is key to training. Use the same command and be
consistent. We train verbal, whistle, and hand commands. Here is a list of verbal and
whistle commands we use. Notice that some words are similar in sound, like, “whoa”
and “no”, “heel” and “here”. These are, for the most part, traditional commands and
are very functional. Some prefer “come” for the recall command; it doesn’t matter,
what does matter is consistency.
• The recall – call the dog’s name command “Here”; several pips on the whistle
• Walking at heel – command “heel”, point to your left foot
• Stop (or staunchness on point) – command “whoa”, one pip on the whistle;
raise right hand
• Release from “whoa” – command “ok” and gently touch the dog on his
shoulder
• Change direction (turn) – command “come around”; two pips on the whistle;
point in desired direction
• Retrieving – command “fetch”
• Release of retrieved object – command “leave”
Tools of the trade
Correct way to put on the choke chain
|
| Click the links below to navigate to a specific training section, or read all the way through. |
We use heel training as a foundation from which starts most of our field training. Just
as importantly, we use heel training to build confidence between dog and handler.
This is very important to a young dog because it will set the acceptance level for the
more demanding and advanced training in the future. It’s very important for the
owner because it presents a good opportunity to become more in tune to the dog’s
stress and tolerance level. When you heel train, you’re establishing in the dog’s
mind that you are in control and that you set the pace, distance and direction.
Training allows the dog to not only accept your role, but more importantly, his role.
As we said in the beginning, heel training is the foundation. All other training,
(walking off lead, whoa training, quartering, sitting, down), begins after walking at
heel is reliable. So now that you know the “why”, let’s move on with the “how”.
Once the dog has accepted the lead, you can start heel training. Snap the lead on
the dog’s collar and with the lead in your right hand, take a short grip on the lead,
placing the dog on your left side and start walking, occasionally commanding “heel”.
After you do this for a few sessions, they will start getting used to it. Be gentle and
give lots of praise, you want the dog to be very comfortable as he is being handled.
Gently and insistently pull them back to your side commanding “heel”.
as importantly, we use heel training to build confidence between dog and handler.
This is very important to a young dog because it will set the acceptance level for the
more demanding and advanced training in the future. It’s very important for the
owner because it presents a good opportunity to become more in tune to the dog’s
stress and tolerance level. When you heel train, you’re establishing in the dog’s
mind that you are in control and that you set the pace, distance and direction.
Training allows the dog to not only accept your role, but more importantly, his role.
As we said in the beginning, heel training is the foundation. All other training,
(walking off lead, whoa training, quartering, sitting, down), begins after walking at
heel is reliable. So now that you know the “why”, let’s move on with the “how”.
Once the dog has accepted the lead, you can start heel training. Snap the lead on
the dog’s collar and with the lead in your right hand, take a short grip on the lead,
placing the dog on your left side and start walking, occasionally commanding “heel”.
After you do this for a few sessions, they will start getting used to it. Be gentle and
give lots of praise, you want the dog to be very comfortable as he is being handled.
Gently and insistently pull them back to your side commanding “heel”.
|
You can't make me!
Oops, maybe I was wrong about that!
Ahh, she still loves me.
Once the dog starts to recognize the relationship of the command “heel” and the
proper behavior, we start using the word “heel” only when we correct them. If they
are walking along side you with no strain on the lead, praise them. If they start
pulling, command “heel” and pull them back where they belong. Vary the speed you
walk at, walk fast making them stay along side you and then slow down. Sometimes
we’ll start into a short run. Do some turns always keeping them along side you. This
will make them pay more attention to you and they will be less inclined to try to lead
you around. You will notice that they will look at you more when you do this as they
are trying to figure out what you want. This is one of our main objectives with heel
training; we want the dog to key in on us. This is a very important aspect in
developing a gun dog. (A lot of heel training will not cause a dog to hunt too close,
but it will help lay the foundation for a manageable dog whatever the range is.)
As with all training avoid being mundane and monotonous, if they are doing well,
show them you are pleased. These dogs are very adept at sensing your moods. The
dog should eventually walk happily along side you with only finger tip pressure on
the lead.
proper behavior, we start using the word “heel” only when we correct them. If they
are walking along side you with no strain on the lead, praise them. If they start
pulling, command “heel” and pull them back where they belong. Vary the speed you
walk at, walk fast making them stay along side you and then slow down. Sometimes
we’ll start into a short run. Do some turns always keeping them along side you. This
will make them pay more attention to you and they will be less inclined to try to lead
you around. You will notice that they will look at you more when you do this as they
are trying to figure out what you want. This is one of our main objectives with heel
training; we want the dog to key in on us. This is a very important aspect in
developing a gun dog. (A lot of heel training will not cause a dog to hunt too close,
but it will help lay the foundation for a manageable dog whatever the range is.)
As with all training avoid being mundane and monotonous, if they are doing well,
show them you are pleased. These dogs are very adept at sensing your moods. The
dog should eventually walk happily along side you with only finger tip pressure on
the lead.
I'm starting to like this heel thing.
Those hands taste great too!
The Goal -- Heeling nicely and being attentive.
The whoa command is probably the most important command for a bird dog that
there is. It is essential to help develop the caution they need to learn to successfully
handle the fickle Ruffed Grouse and other game birds. It is also very handy for non-
hunting purposes such as stopping your dog from running out into a road and
getting hit by a car, keeping them away from porcupines, or chasing deer, cats,
dogs, etc.
There are numerous methods of teaching “whoa”; we have found that with our dogs,
teaching whoa from the heeling routine is the most effective. The time to incorporate
whoa training is when they are heeling reasonably well. Starting whoa training is
simply walking the dog at heel, stopping and saying “whoa” stand there for about 15
or 20 seconds. Repeating heel and whoa, again and again. The dog may sit when
you stop. If you are one of our non hunting owners you may find this convenient. If
so, give him a pet and a “good dog”. For hunting purposes, whoa is used in
conjunction with pointing so we want the dog to stand. If they sit, stand them up and
praise them. The goal at this stage is for them to associate the word with an action.
Repeat this a few times and quit. This training can become boring for both of you so
keep the sessions short. Short and numerous.
Whoa must be a command that the dog is comfortable with. Set the dog up at your
side while kneeling along side them; stroke their tail up with one hand and with the
other stroke the hair on their back forward.
there is. It is essential to help develop the caution they need to learn to successfully
handle the fickle Ruffed Grouse and other game birds. It is also very handy for non-
hunting purposes such as stopping your dog from running out into a road and
getting hit by a car, keeping them away from porcupines, or chasing deer, cats,
dogs, etc.
There are numerous methods of teaching “whoa”; we have found that with our dogs,
teaching whoa from the heeling routine is the most effective. The time to incorporate
whoa training is when they are heeling reasonably well. Starting whoa training is
simply walking the dog at heel, stopping and saying “whoa” stand there for about 15
or 20 seconds. Repeating heel and whoa, again and again. The dog may sit when
you stop. If you are one of our non hunting owners you may find this convenient. If
so, give him a pet and a “good dog”. For hunting purposes, whoa is used in
conjunction with pointing so we want the dog to stand. If they sit, stand them up and
praise them. The goal at this stage is for them to associate the word with an action.
Repeat this a few times and quit. This training can become boring for both of you so
keep the sessions short. Short and numerous.
Whoa must be a command that the dog is comfortable with. Set the dog up at your
side while kneeling along side them; stroke their tail up with one hand and with the
other stroke the hair on their back forward.
Talking soothingly while saying “whoa”. This does wonders for the dog’s comfort
level. The more comfortable they are, the more willingly they are going to obey.
level. The more comfortable they are, the more willingly they are going to obey.
|
